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Seattle Underground

American Travel, Historical Location, Tours, Washington

Uncovering the history of Seattle’s Underground

I spent a great deal of my time growing up in the Seattle area. As long as I can remember it’s been on my list to go on the Underground Tour. I don’t know why no one ever really wanted to go with me. I guess we all knew Pioneer Square as being an area full of homeless, drugs, and other things that don’t seem very family friendly. Now as an adult, I finally got my chance! It still took some convincing but my family finally conceded (I bribed them with coffee and hot chocolate) and off we went to dig up another adventure! (Get it…underground…dig up… You’ll need to appreciate excellent puns such as this to not only enjoy the article but the tour itself)

Underground Tour entrance
Headed in to Seattle Underground Tour, Pioneer Square, Seattle
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The Tour Begins

We started in Doc Maynard’s Public House which is an 1890’s saloon. The weird thing is, standing in the saloon at street level we were actually a full story above the original sidewalk and entrance. HUH? I looked out at Pioneer Square and realized how simple and plain the entrances were to these old buildings. It is because we are looking at the second, and in some cases, third stories of these buildings and the entrances we were seeing now are converted windows. We were still trying to wrap our heads around that as we descended down some unassuming stairs and quite literally into another world from another time, weirdly preserved from weather and wear and everything was still. (Except the punderful commentary by our guide)

  • Seattle original downtown
    Pioneer Square Street level , but really second level of buildings
  • Same view circa 1895 after underground is created

Seattle Beginnings

Seattle was originally built in the 1880’s at sea level. It was great because the town was built right along the natural slope of the land so all the sewage naturally would flow down and be carried out to the ocean, right? No need for an actual sewage system. The problem with this genius is there is a thing called ‘tides’. If you have ever experienced the difference in low tide and high tide, you see where this is going. When the tide came in, the toilets very commonly ‘reverse flushed’ sometimes as an explosive fountain up to four feet tall. I’m not kidding. This was a daily occurrence and people lived with this as normal! Special.

The Great Fire

When the big fire of 1889 came and raged through the wooden town the city officials decided maybe it was just best to let the whole thing burn to the ground. Then they would just start over and build the city higher up on the land. Seemed like a good plan…so they did.

The Rebuild

But while one group focused on building buildings of better, non flammable material with a better sewage system, the other group focused on bringing in dirt and trash and dead horses (I’m serious) and what ever they could find to fill in the streets and make them better then the sinking mudflats that they were. Well pretty soon the sidewalks, entrances and windows were at one level and the streets were about 35 feet taller. This was reinforced (literally) by building retaining walls to hold the streets together. So the downtown sidewalks were now like troughs around the buildings.

  • Standing in the original first floor of this building in photo
  • Looking out of Korn block Building (in photo to left) on original first floor

Solution

The genius solution to this predicament was…. ladders. So at every corner one would climb a ladder up 35 feet, cross the street, go back down a ladder and carry on one’s business. SUPER convenient in a 1800’s dress and bustle. After 17 men fell to their deaths, the powers that be thought maybe this wasn’t working out so well. So, in their infinite wisdom, they capped off the sidewalks so Seattle in essence had two ‘first floors’. They put in glass skylights so the original sidewalks could be used at original level but now people could use both levels.

  • glass skylight
    On today’s street level
  • underground sidewalk skylight
    Standing in the same place Street level 1890 Seattle

But Then

Let’s play a game. What happens when you have something like a grocery store now underground and your entryways and sidewalks have now become tunnels? Did someone say rats? Correct!!!! In 1907 bubonic plague hit Seattle and since the tunnels were described as ‘wall to wall carpet of fur with millions of beady eyes’ (Insert me alternately vomiting and screaming here) they shut it down until the 1960’s.

In the twentieth century, the Seattle Underground then became a home to a myriad of activities from the benign to nefarious including simple storage, speakeasies, shelter for the homeless, drug dens, gambling halls, and even a set for a 1970’s TV show about vampires.

  • Oriental Hotel Seattle
    Sidewalk next to famed Oriental Hotel. Very haunted
  • Teller’s Cage. Part of original ground floor bank-Underground Seattle
  • set piece from TV show

Ghost Stories

Because of the sorted history of Seattle in general, let alone the going on’s in this walled off underground, the underground is ripe with ghost stories. I have several to share (I’m pretty sure I encountered one) but that, my friends, is another Blog Post!

This family smiling nervously and hoping to God there is NOT a ghost in this family photo Underground

Get to Know CityPASS

The Underground Tour of Seattle is one of many unique and top attractions included in CityPASS. For a family, the savings CityPASS provides is essential to be able to make the most of budgets. It works in many North American cities and my favorite part is that it is family owned and operated! (Just like this blog) Please consider patronizing them via this link! We all win!!! Whoo Hoo!

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Read: Washington Travel Stories

coffee in seattle
Obligatory photo of beautiful millennial with coffee in rainy Seattle (thanks honey!)

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. I love tours like this. It’s so awesome to see old photos and learn all about what’s really under your feet as you walk around. Super cool.

  4. This sounds so interesting I had no idea this was even a thing! I will check it out next time I am in Seattle for sure.

  9. I had no idea that Seattle was built like that! Crazy what people think is a good idea. I will have to take that tour when I visit Seattle!

  10. What a cool tour! I love stuff like this. I haven’t been to Seattle yet, but I really want to. The levels remind me of Eureka Springs, Arkansas. They had to move things around because of mud rather than tides, though. The ghost part sounds great, too!

  13. We did the after dark underground tour one year and we quite enjoyed that. I would like to do it again because it has been quite a few years, and let’s face it… I’m getting old and my memory just isn’t what it once was, LOL

  14. I have been to Seattle a couple of times but only in passing and wish I had time to do this type of tour…there is always next time I guess.

  16. What a fascinating (and cringe-worthy) history! Love this behind-the-scenes narrative and looking forward to your blog post about your ghost encounter.

  17. I often have to bribe my family to go places but once they experience them, they are so glad they went! 🙂 This looks so cool. When in Seattle, I will seek this out!

  19. I would LOVE this tour – sounds exactly like something both my daughter and I would love. Now, to get to Seattle …

  20. I was bummed that I didn’t have time to go on any tours when I was in Seattle in October. I would have LOVED this tour! Great information!

  21. We haven’t been to Seattle. This is a great tour that you’re suggesting, we’ll have to do that when we do go. Thank you for sharing this valuable information.

  24. This sounds awesome – love the history!! I’ve not yet been to Seattle, but it’s on my list – definitely need to check this tour out!

  27. May have to do this one without the hubby. He’s not big on underground and caves. But this is right up my alley, and my girls’ too!

  30. Wooow! I have never been to Seattle, but when I go, I will definitely want to check out what’s hiding under my feet! What an amazing adventure and fascinating history! Awesome post! 🙂

    • If you do end up let me know!I’d be happy to help you find unique and cool things to do!!

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